Category: sar­to­ri­al­ly

Vivienne Westwood on Vivienne Westwood

Vestoj

The Self on Display

The nar­ra­tive of Westwood’s auto­bi­og­ra­phy is built on her par­al­lel engage­ment in fash­ion and activism, a dynam­ic she has main­tained since her punk years. She and her one-time part­ner, Mal­colm McLaren have been cred­it­ed with hav­ing made fash­ion explic­it­ly polit­i­cal through the cre­ation of the punk uniform.

The Propaganda of Pantone

via Loki Design

Colour & Sub­cul­tur­al Sublimation

In the case of colour, Pan­tone Inc. holds incred­i­ble influ­ence with their increas­ing­ly mar­ket­ed and medi­a­tised Colour of the Year cam­paigns. Pur­port­ed­ly deter­mined through a pre­scient read­ing of the cul­tur­al zeit­geist (by a select cabal of colour spe­cial­ists), it is impor­tant to under­stand that the com­pa­ny, and the indus­try it serves, have their own spe­cif­ic inter­ests and agen­das that dri­ve these selec­tions. Pantone’s choice of “Rose Quartz” and “Seren­i­ty” as the 2016 Colour of the Year is the most insid­i­ous move by this colour-indus­tri­al-com­plex since “Blue Iris” in 2008. As with “Blue Iris”, Pan­tone has once again mined the sub­cul­tur­al land­scape and used their monop­oly with­in the cre­ative indus­tries to prop­a­gate their colour prop­er­ties to the world.

Chiara Vigo: The last woman who makes sea silk

Max Paradiso for the BBC from Sardinia

watch­ing a craft disappear

Some believe it was the cloth God told Moses to lay on the first altar. It was the finest fab­ric known to ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, and one of its remark­able prop­er­ties is the way it shines when exposed to the sun, once it has been treat­ed with lemon juice and spices.

The First Black Trans Model Had Her Face on a Box of Clairol

New York Magazine

…in 1975.

We’re liv­ing in a time when trans mod­els like Lea T and Andre­ja Pejic have been the faces of Red­ken and Make Up For Ever, and Cait­lyn Jen­ner has been cel­e­brat­ed on the cov­er of Van­i­ty Fair. This kind of cul­tur­al accep­tance makes it easy to lose sight of how dan­ger­ous it was 40 years ago — and still can be today — for women like Nor­man to just walk down a street. Fear of harass­ment from both police and civil­ians was con­stant. To live one’s life open­ly as a trans­gen­der woman, let alone one as a black trans woman, sim­ply wasn’t done. The only option, real­ly, was to “pass” in straight society.

Lau­ra Balke, via Insta­gram

The apotheosis of the deliberately boring normcore turtleneck was found on Steve Jobs, who arrived at his stark trademark look after striking up a friendship with the designer Issey Miyake, who gave him 100 or so of them. Troy Patterson for the New York Times

Can the Turtle­neck Ever Be Cool Again?

I can only imag­ine that Issey Miyake might bris­tle end­less­ly unto his death with this asso­ci­a­tion that will nev­er be for­got­ten, of a rich man so com­plete­ly and utter­ly lack­ing in per­son­al style that he demand one of the finest crafts­men in cloth­ing make for him a shape­less fisherman’s sweater, bear­ing no resem­blance to the craft for which he was hired. Read the entire piece at the New York Times.

Ishi­uchi Miyako, at The Guardian, from a col­lec­tion at The Get­ty in Los Angeles

Milan Zrnic, via Insta­gram

Princess Chee­to, via Insta­gram

Bri­an Ken­ny, via Insta­gram

original content © 2017 patric king.